The guide / Part V · Applications

Chapter 31

Pens

Fountain pens are where most Western hobbyists actually encounter urushi first — Nakaya, Danitrio, and Namiki/Pilot all sell urushi-finished pens commercially, and Tamenuri Studio itself is a pen-focused studio. Pens are also, despite their small size, not an easier starting object than a bowl: their cylindrical form, narrow tolerances (a coating that's a fraction of a millimeter too thick will bind the cap or section), and small threaded/functional parts make them fussier in different ways.

The documented 19-step sequence

Chapter 20 covers this in the context of roiro polishing; the same sequence, viewed as a pen-specific workflow:

  1. Two coats of raw seshime urushi directly onto the ebonite blank.
  2. Five repetitions of: black naka-nuri urushi, brushed, 48-hour humidity-chamber cure, charcoal-flattened.
  3. Two repetitions of: kuro-roiro urushi, 24-hour cure, charcoal-and-water ground flat.
  4. A long alternating polishing phase: charcoal/water sanding, tonoko-and-oil polishing paste, thin kijōmi coats with careful wipe/dry, and final micro-polishing with rapeseed oil and migako powder by fingertip.

19 steps minimum, 1–5 days of cure between each, in a furo held at 25–28°C / 65–80% RH. (On Fountain Pens)

Finished urushi fountain pens from Tamenuri Studio. Watch on YouTube.
DIY tamenuri process on fountain pens. Watch on YouTube.

Practical pen-specific notes

  • Mask functional parts. Threads, the section-to-barrel fit, and the nib/feed housing need to stay free of buildup, or the pen simply won't assemble or write correctly — mask before every coat, not just the final one.
  • Ebonite vs. wood blanks behave differently: ebonite doesn't absorb the way wood does, so the very first coats function more like a bonding/key layer than a soak-in coat — expect the process to diverge from the bowl workflow in Chapter 30 at exactly this early stage.
  • Commercial naming conventions are worth learning to read: Danitrio, for instance, labels finishes directly by technique and color — "Roiro-migaki Black," "Roiro-migaki Red," "Kama-nuri Red Roiro-migaki" — which is a useful, very concrete vocabulary check against everything in Chapter 20. (Product examples: 1, 2, 3.)
  • Manufacturer transparency is limited. Nakaya's own site confirms every pen is "carefully finished by a urushi lacquer craftsman" combining "the craftsman's skills with Nakaya's know-how," but — consistent with craft workshops generally — does not publish exact steps or timings. (Nakaya) Treat maker sites as inspiration and provenance, not technical documentation; the documented process above and the community forums below are where the real detail lives.

For community troubleshooting from hobbyists actually doing this on pen blanks (cost reality, brush choices, sourcing headaches), see the fpgeeks "Urushi on fountain pens" thread and the International Association of Penturners thread referenced in Chapter 10.