The guide / Part III · Core Techniques

Chapter 13

Kokuso & Sabi: Filling, Reinforcement, and Repair Paste

Two putties do almost all of the structural filling work in urushi craft, and they are not interchangeable — kokuso is coarse and structural, sabi is fine and cosmetic/final-fill. Both also happen to be the working vocabulary of kintsugi ceramic repair, since kintsugi is essentially urushi substrate technique applied to broken pottery instead of wood. (JAANUS, kokuso-urushi)

Kokuso — for gaps, chips, and joint reinforcement

ComponentRole
Mugi-urushi (flour + water + raw urushi)Binding base
Wood powder (fine sawdust)Bulk aggregate, any fine wood works
Polishing powder (fine ground rock)Structural filler
  1. Mix the three components; the source recipe does not give a fixed ratio — work to a stiff, moldable paste.
  2. Apply in thin passes of only 0.5–1 mm at a time with a bamboo spatula, wiping the spatula frequently on tissue as material sticks to it.
  3. Let each pass dry at least overnight before adding the next. This is not optional: a kokuso layer applied too thick traps air and the interior never fully cures.
  4. Build up until the fill sits level with — or very slightly below — the surrounding surface.
  5. Only after the fill is complete, sand flat with 320-grit paper. Don't sand between kokuso layers.
  6. Leftover kokuso keeps about a week rolled into a ball, wrapped in plastic film, stored cool and dark.

(Full process: Tsugu Tsugu, Filling the Deep Chips with Kokuso)

Sabi — for small holes and final surface leveling

  1. Put fine polishing powder (traditionally whetstone-cutting waste) on a mixing palette.
  2. Add water a few drops at a time with a dropper, kneading with a spatula until it reaches the consistency of hard mayonnaise.
  3. Add raw urushi equal to roughly 60% of that paste's volume, and knead quickly.
  4. Work fast — sabi-urushi begins hardening as soon as it's exposed to air. Keep it covered with a spatula "lid" between uses.
  5. Apply with a bamboo or specially-shaped spatula. On glass, unglazed ceramic, or other surfaces you don't want stained, mask everything except the repair area with tape first.
  6. If applying with a brush rather than a spatula, work quickly and wash the brush tip in oil immediately after — sabi hardens onto brush hair fast.

(Full process: Tsugu Tsugu, Filling Small Holes with Sabi-Urushi; see also the general overview at kintsugiblog and megu.space.)

Sabi urushi applied to a wooden base
Sabi urushi being applied to a wooden base as part of ground-layer prep. Source: Kyuseido